A Step-by-Step Guide to Grooming your Double Coated Dog
When grooming your dog, it is important to understand the coat type, to ensure you are using the correct tools and methods to achieve the desired result.Double coated dogs have a coat consisting of two layers. The undercoat is dense and full of short hairs, typically with a wooly texture, while the outer coat has longer hairs known as guard hairs. The undercoat serves mainly to keep the dog protected from extreme temperatures – both hot and cold – while the top coat helps to repel moisture and dirt.
Many double coated breeds 'blow' their coats when transitioning from a winter coat to a summer coat, during which the undercoat is released in large clumps rather than the normal shedding which is seen all year round. Regular grooming is essential for double coated dogs to promote skin health, maintain hygiene and prevent tangles forming in the coat.
Double coated breeds include the Akita, Siberian Husky, Shetland Sheepdog, Golden Retriever, Border Collie, Newfoundland, Shiba Inu and Pomeranian.
Brushing Tools & Techniques
A double coated dog has a lot of hair to gather debris and form tangles, so should be brushed at least 3 times per week, and more often when blowing coat. When grooming these coats, it is important that brushing is focussed on the areas prone to matting, and that particular brushing techniques are used to identify and remove tangles.
Step 1: Beginning at the bottom of a rear leg, identify a section of the leg to brush and use one hand to hold the overhanging longer hair away from this section while brushing with a Slicker Brush. Continue up the leg, using the Undercoat Rake in combination with the Slicker Brush where lots of loose hair needs to be removed. Do not move onto a new section until you can easily glide a comb through the coat. Use a detangling, conditioning spray where matts have formed, and a Dematting comb to gently tease the tangles without hurting the dog. Work your way up the leg to the top of the hind quarters, then repeat on the other side and on the tail.
Step 2: Move on to the front legs and repeat the same process, taking care to remove any tangles in the feathering of the legs. Lift the front leg and brush in the underarm area and along the underbelly.
Step 3: Spray the chest area with a detangling spray before brushing with a slicker brush. Depending on the density of the coat, it may be necessary to use the same line combing techniques used for the legs to reach the undercoat and remove all tangles and loose hair.
Step 4: When grooming the facial area and behind the ears, spray the detangling spray onto your hands before rubbing onto the dog's hair, to avoid spraying so close to the sensitive eyes and ears. Pay particular attention to remove any tangling around the ears using the Dematting comb.
Step 5: Complete grooming by brushing outstanding areas with the slicker brush and undercoat rake to remove any remaining loose coat.
Bath Time!
Double coated dogs tend to need regular washing, usually every 4-8 weeks, as their coats are prone to holding smells and debris. Bathing can help to loosen undercoat so can be done more often while the dog is blowing their coat.
Conditioner should be applied after bathing to help moisturise the skin and hair, and protect against tangles.
Human shampoos should never be used on dogs, as dogs and humans have very different pH balances in the thin layer called the acid mantle, which protects the skin. Human skin has a normal pH balance of 5.5-5.6, which is on the acidic side. Dogs, on the other hand, have a normal pH balance of 6.2-7.4, which is more neutral. Using a human shampoo on dogs disrupts the acid mantle, leaving your dog vulnerable to parasites, viruses, and bacteria. It also makes his skin feel dry and flaky, which can lead to repeated scratching and abrasions. This makes it easy for bacteria to invade. Dog’s skin is also more sensitive than ours; we have 10-15 layers of skin cells, canines have only 3-5. Shampoo with the wrong pH balance and/or harsh chemicals can irritate a dog’s skin and strip away the protective oils from his coat and skin.
Step 1: Collect all the items you will need for the bath, including a jug to dilute the shampoo if required, your chosen shampoo and conditioner, a bathing tool such as a Kong Zoom Groom to help massage the shampoo to the skin, and a helper to hold your dog if necessary.
Step 2: Place your dog in the bath or shower on a non-slip mat. Ensure the water temperature is suitable, not too hot nor too cold, and thoroughly wet the dog all over. Massage shampoo into the coat, ensuring that it is reaching the skin and that you do not miss any areas. Take care around the eyes and ears to ensure that shampoo and soapy water do not get into these sensitive areas. Rinse the coat thoroughly until you can hear a 'squeak' from the coat when you hold it between your fingers - squeaky clean! Repeat for conditioner.
Step 3: Towel dry your dog as much as possible while they stand in the shower or bath. They will almost certainly shake as soon as you let them loose. If your dog will tolerate it, you can finish drying with a hair dryer, taking care to avoid burns or discomfort from the heat of the hair dryer. Use a Pin Brush to disrupt the coat throughout the drying process, to help spread the natural oils and speed up drying.
Eyes, Ears & Teeth
Eyes: Check the eyes and clean any gunk which has accumulated. This should be done on a regular basis to stop deposits becoming hardened and more difficult to remove. Use lightly dampened cotton wool or Petkin Eye Wipes for mild cases. If there are excessive deposits around your pet's eyes, you will need to contact a vet as this could signify infection. If your dog suffers from tear staining, use a Tear Stain Remover on a regular basis as these need to be broken down over time.
Ears: Cleaning the ears is an essential part of a grooming routine, and is best done outside before a bath as when your dog shakes after ear cleaning, the debris has to go somewhere! Before cleaning the ears, inspect them. If your dog has a lot of hair coming from the ear canal, it may need to be plucked. Talk to your groomer or vet's office about how to properly pluck the ears without hurting your dog. Squirt a few drops of ear cleaner into the ear and gently massage the base of the ear as the cleaner dissolves wax and loosens dirt. Allow your dog to shake and gently wipe down the ear with a suitable wipe. Most dogs are not keen on this process, so be sure to reward with a delicious treat.
Dental: Choose a suitable toothbrush and toothpaste (one designed for dogs!) for your pet. Most toothpastes are designed to be used on a daily basis. If your pet will not tolerate tooth brushing, implement other strategies to control their dental health and hygiene such as using a Dental Rinse which can be added to their water bowl.
Nail Maintenance
Unless your dog spends a lot of time exercising on hard surfaces, it is likely that they will need their nails trimmed on a regular basis.
Few dogs enjoy this, so it is unlikely to be your favourite shared activity, but regular handling of the feet, weekly nail trims and lots of rewards will help to make the process easier and less daunting to both you and your pet.
Ensure that you hold your dog's paw gently yet firmly to prevent slipping, and always use clippers such as Ancol Nail Clippers which have a guard to help prevent serious accidents.
It is common to cause a small bleed when clipping nails, especially with darker nails, so keep some first aid gear on hand to stem any bleeding and reduce the trauma to both yourself and your dog.
If your dog is likely to resist nail trimming, enlist the help of another calm person to help with holding the dog as still as possible.
